Preparation For Pros

The time and effort you put into preparing a surface will pay off in the long run resulting in a beautiful finish, fewer call backs and lasting homeowner satisfaction. Follow these few basic rules and apply them to nearly every job.

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Approximately 90% of painting failures result from insufficient preparation.

The time and effort you put into preparing a surface for painting will pay off in the long run resulting in a beautiful finish, fewer callbacks and lasting homeowner satisfaction.

Although the preparation will vary depending on the condition of the substrate and the type of paint being applied a few basic rules apply to virtually every job.

Spraying a first coat on new interiors may not require a drop cloth but for second coats, res repaint and most other jobs the first step is to keep paint from landing where it's not wanted.

Use drop cloths to cover floors, woodwork, countertops or furnishings that can't be moved out of the way.

Outside drop cloths prevent spattering on to surrounding shrubs, grass or hardscapes.

Fundamental to any paint job is ensuring that the surface is clean, sound, dull and dry.

Repair any cracks or holes or for previously painted surfaces, remove alligator or peeling paint.

New drywall is likely to be dusty, so wipe down the walls to remove any loose particles or drywall fibers before painting.

Otherwise the paint may not adhere well.

Cleaning is just as important outside where surface dirt is inevitable.

Pressure washing is the best way to achieve a clean surface, but be careful to aim your hose away from windows.

They can break from the pressure.

Always allow the surface to dry completely before painting.

Paint will simply fail to stick to a wet surface.

Speaking of moisture, if you're painting a new concrete or masonry surface it's essential to allow the concrete to cure completely before painting.

Otherwise, moisture trapped below the surface can cause the paint film to blister.

Refer to the paint's label or product datasheet for specific information on cure time.

Surfaces that are glossy, such as metal railings or surfaces previously painted with a high gloss enamel will inhibit good adhesion.

Clean the surface first, then scuff sand.

This may be needed to increase the profile of the substrate for better adhesion of the top coat.

When you're done wipe off dust or loose particles before continuing.

The next step is to remove any light fixtures or wall plates.

It saves cutting in and results in a more professional finished appearance.

Some contractors also find it helpful to use masking tape to make cutting in easier.

That could include masking around trim work cabinets, wall sconces and so forth.

Use a high-quality painter's tape that can be peeled off later without damaging the underlying surface or leaving a sticky residue.

This tape will also deliver cleaner sharper edges when separating one painted area from another.

Although certain premium coatings perform well over previously coated substrates new drywall typically requires more than a single coat to achieve good coverage.

Some builders apply two coats of a standard interior latex paint to fresh drywall but the right primer has many advantages.

Not only will it ensure the best adhesion and optimize the performance of the top coat, it can minimize surface prep by binding drywall fibers and creating a smooth surface for the top coat.

It also promotes a consistent sheen across the entire wall.

New untreated wood also requires a primer to prevent tannin bleed and achieve a uniform finish.

Uncoated masonry services are porous so harsh weather, wind driven rain or unrelenting sun can undermine their integrity.

A quality masonry primer will provide the foundation for a coating system that will help withstand extreme conditions for years to come.

And some primers are even formulated to promote good adhesion, when conditions make it difficult to achieve thorough surface prep.

So what's the bottom line?

The right primer can make all the difference between a job that stands the test of time and one that fails prematurely.

Always consult your paint manufacturer’s representative for best results.

Good preparation also involves caulking to seal joints and cracks.

It may be required to seal gaps around trim work or window frames where tubs or countertops meet drywall or between vertical seams and siding.

First, make sure old caulk is removed and the area is dry and clear of debris.

If the surrounding surface will be primed it's best to caulk after priming because the caulk will adhere better to a painted surface.

Squeeze a smooth bead along the joint using enough material to fill the gap entirely but avoiding excess that can look messy or pull away over time.

Typically, a paintable silicone or acrylic caulk is better for caulking around windows and doors.

In addition to being paintable, these products are easy to clean and long-lasting.

If you're caulking a joint between different types of surface materials make sure the caulk is suitable for both materials.

Outdoors you'll need one that has the flexibility to withstand temperature fluctuations.

Remember, never caulk the horizontal seams of exterior siding because moisture can get trapped and cause problems in the future.

It's no surprise that a good paint job depends on good preparation.

Understanding the unique requirements of your situation and preparing the surface properly will not only save time in the long run it'll result in work you can be proud of.