A: To assure maximum washability and durability, wait at least two weeks before washing the dry paint film. Avoid any abrasive or harsh chemical cleaners as these could damage the paint film. We recommend testing cleaner on a small, inconspicuous area prior to use.

Follow these steps when using concentrated cleaners (liquid or dry):

1. Mix or dilute the cleaner per package instructions. Solution strength may be adjusted depending on the amount and type of contaminant.
2. Remove any heavy debris and contaminants from your surface.
3. Using a sponge or cloth, wash surface dirt and marks. Always clean from the bottom of a wall to the top.
4. Rinse the surface thoroughly. Do not allow the cleaner to dry on the surface.

A: Touching up an existing painted surface can be challenging - professional painters wrestle with this constantly.

Use these tips to properly touch up or repair your wall:

• If possible, use paint from the original can, but reduce it 10% - 15% with the reducer recommended on the can.
• If possible, apply the paint with the tool you previously used (i.e. brush or roller)
• Apply a small amount of the touch-up paint and "feather" the edges, starting at the outside edge of the touch-up area into the center of the area. "Feathering" entails drawing the brush across the area outside of the touch-up onto the new paint to create a transition that diminishes the appearance of the touch-up.
• If the surface had to be patched, use a primer-sealer.
• Try to prime and paint to a natural break.
• If repaired areas are noticeable, painting the entire wall may be preferred.

A: A commonly accepted guideline for deck staining is every two to three years, however, the frequency for staining your deck can vary depending on the type of wood and type of stain used. Other factors include how often the deck area is used and the climate you live in.

A: In general, the spring and fall seasons are best for deck staining. Summer allows for extreme heat and direct sun exposure, while winter subjects your decking to the possibility of harsh precipitation and cold.

A: While staining your deck tends to enhance the natural aesthetic and can offer temporary protection again mildew, mold, rot, and UV rays, it will likely not prolong the life of your decking.

A: No. Mildew can grow in any area that is dark and moist with limited air movement. Paints can be formulated to inhibit mildew growth, but under certain conditions, mildew will appear on any type of paint eventually. A cleaning or maintenance schedule is the best protection in such environments.

A: There are various cleaners on the market that are specifically designed for the removal of mildew, however, a bleach and water solution can work just as well.

Follow these steps to properly clean your surface:

1. Use protective clothing and goggles to avoid contact with the solution.
2. Wash mildewed areas with a solution of one part household bleach and three parts water to destroy mildew and bleach stains caused by mildew growth. Never mix bleach with other chemicals.
3. Apply the solution by brush or a garden sprayer apparatus. Heavy mildew may require additional applications, and scrubbing may be required.
4. Flush the area with clean water (before the solution dries) to remove bleach solution. Allow the surface to dry thoroughly.
   
   Please note that these steps address the mildew problem only; any other contaminants may require cleaning by other means.

A: In general, a detergent cleaner such as a TSP substitute or a pre-paint cleaner can be used. Be sure to wear all recommended safety equipment when working with these cleaners. Also, do not mix any other chemicals with these cleaners.

Please note that some of these products could affect the overall finish on the existing surface and should only be used if you are planning to repaint the surface.

A: Efflorescence is often seen as a white, fluffy deposit of salt crystals on cementitious wall surfaces which is caused by the presence of salt and moisture. Crystals will continue to grow as long as both elements are present.

The salts are present in the mortar blocks or concrete structure and the moisture is usually attributable to some building defect. When emanating from mortar in brick or block buildings, efflorescence will appear as narrow bands corresponding to mortar joints.

Salts should be removed by mechanical brushing. The use of water (at high pressure) to remove efflorescence is not recommended as it may exacerbate the problem. Repair areas where moisture penetrates the wall and allow walls to dry thoroughly prior to priming. Painting should be delayed if efflorescence continues.