A: Sherwin-Williams offers the highest quality paints for interior design, organized into a variety of collections. These collections are specifically structured to support decision-making based on your aesthetic design prowess and vision.

You can visit our Product Guidance experience to find the perfect color to meet the specific needs of any home project, indoor or outdoor.

A: Most products are ready to go right out of the can with no reduction necessary. Some products can be reduced to some degree. The product's data page will indicate the maximum reduction allowed if any and the correct type of reducer.

Please note that reducing a paint product past the recommended levels would produce a solution that may not offer the same performance characteristics as those indicated on the product's data page. Always use the recommended solvent and never reduce past the amounts recommended by the product's manufacturer.

A: Until a few years ago, painting needed to done when temperatures were going to be above 50°F. However, with advances made in waterborne technologies, products like Duration^®, Resilience^®, SuperPaint^®, A-100^®, in addition to WoodScapes^® products can be applied when temperatures are as low as 35ºF.

Please note that surface, air and product temperatures must be at or above 35ºF and that environmental conditions during and after painting need to be considered. Stable conditions and temperatures above 35ºF are needed early in the paint's drying schedule. The first 48 hours could be critical to successful drying.

A: As you can imagine, this can be open to debate. In most cases, the ceiling and walls are primed prior to installing the trim, with ceilings being done first, then the wall. Once the trim is installed and the edges caulked, the trim is primed and finish coated, making the trim last.

Even when repainting a similar order is followed: Ceiling first, walls second, trim last. If the trim were painted first, splatter from the roller could end up on the freshly painted trim. Since time is of the essence in repaint work, there is not usually enough time between painting the trim and painting the wall to use masking tape on the freshly applied paint.

A: Natural and synthetic brushes are both great options for painting projects. Making the decision about which type to use comes down to the type of paint you'll be using:

• Natural brushes are best for shellac-based paint and primer, oil-based paint, varnish, alkyd enamels, chalk and clay-based paints, milk paint, or stain.
• Synthetic brushes perform best when applying water-based paints, primers, and wood finishes, acrylic paint, and gloss paints.

A: Painting vinyl siding is always an option if you're looking to liven up your home's outward appearance. Before painting, plan to prepare the siding by cleaning, masking doors, windows and trim, and priming.

Additionally, you'll want to consider paints that are specifically made for exterior use or siding, as well as factors like HOA guidelines or municipal preservation policies that impact how you're able to modify your home.

A: Vertical ceramic tile (non-floor) in an area not subjected to extreme moisture (for example around the shower) should first be cleaned to remove all contamination. You can use a mild household detergent for cleaning. Sand the surface to dull the finish (always wear a dust mask when sanding) then apply a coat of adhesion primer then follow with two coats of good quality latex paint. Naturally this system should be tested to ensure good adhesion before starting the whole project.

A: Conventional floor coatings will not acquire sufficient adhesion to a ceramic tile floor. A professional contractor could be called in to completely scarify the surface. Once the ceramic finish is completely removed, it may be possible to treat the surface as a masonry or concrete surface.

A: While every effort is made to ensure uniformity of color, the fact remains that paint products, tint products, and even tinting equipment, all operate within specified tolerance levels. This means that there is a possibility that cans of paint bought at different times may not match exactly.

If and/or when you realize that you will not have enough paint to complete a full coat over the entire space, we recommend that you stop at a natural break, such as a corner, window or door opening. Then go purchase additional product.

If you're painting the final coat and you anticipate that you may need to touch up some of the areas already coated, take some product from the original material and set it aside (be sure to label it so that you can identify which areas it was used on). Take the remainder of the original paint and mix it with the new product before continuing.

A: When painting wood there is a balance that needs to be achieved. Wood is constantly expanding and contracting with changes in the environment. The harder and more durable the finish, the more rigid and less forgiving to movement it can be. On the other hand, paint materials that are very flexible are not hard enough to handle high foot traffic. Taking this into consideration, it is best to paint this surface with our Porch & Floor Enamel.

An oil-based alternative, such as our All Surface Enamel Oil, can also be used, especially where more abrasion is anticipated. In a common entry, it may be necessary to touch up the traffic area every year or two while the rest of the surface may last longer. Some have found it advantageous to install a runner of some sort to minimize the maintenance of this surface.

For a thinner film build system, we recommend our SuperDeck^® Solid Stain.

A: The general answer is yes. However, it is vital that the surface be properly prepared. If the surface may have been coated prior to 1978, please consider the following lead hazard cautionary statement:

Warning! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects, especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective equipment, such as a properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call (in the U.S.) the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD or contact your local health authority.

A: Follow these steps to calculate the amount of paint needed:

1. First calculate the square feet of space that will be coated.
2. Determine how many square feet a gallon of the intended product will cover.
3. Divide the number of square feet to be covered by the number of square feet that a given product can cover.

For example, if the product covers 400 square feet, and you are coating 1,000 square feet (1,000 divided by 400 = 2.5), you will need 2.5 gallons. 400 square feet is theoretical because the texture of the substrate, along with the material left on the applicator, and other tools, are not part of this calculation. This information is often available on the data page for the product as well.

A: Yes, Duration^® Home has been specially formulated to provide a mildew resistant finish in humid environments, such as bathrooms. These tough, durable finishes are suitable for use on interior walls, ceilings, and trim. Common household stains may be removed with nonabrasive cleaners. When applied according to label directions these products will resist mildew growth and will remain washable.

A: After the brick has been cleaned to remove any contaminants from the surface with a heavy duty cleaner like TSP substitute and thoroughly rinsed apply one coat of a masonry primer. Once primed follow with two coats of interior acrylic latex semi gloss or satin paint. This material can resist temperatures up to 200ºF. Naturally this system is not for the firebox (not for direct contact with fire). Also, if flames are able to shoot out of the firebox there is a possibility of scorching the newly painted surface.

A: There has been much written on the affects of color on the moods of individuals. Behavioral psychology books may be a good source on this subject.

Here are some general concepts:

• Warm colors (red, yellow, and orange) attract attention, create excitement, promote cheerfulness, and stimulate action.
• Cool colors (blue, turquoise, green, and purple) relax and refresh, promote peacefulness and concentration.
• Light colors (off whites, light tones) make areas seem more spacious and tend to give people a psychological lift.
• Dark colors (deep tones) make areas appear smaller and long exposure can create a feeling of monotony and depression.
• Bold colors attract the eye and create excitement.
• White reflects more light and denote cleanliness; they can unite spaces.

A: Enamel is a broad classification for finishing materials that dry to a smooth, hard finish and usually possess a gloss. In the past this term referred exclusively to oil base products, however, new generation latex products area also at times referred to as enamels. Because of these factors enamel, as a paint term has become somewhat ambiguous.

Oil base products are those products that typically are composed of pigments dissolved in a mineral spirit, such as paint thinner, while latex products are an emulsion suspended in water. The obvious differences are that oil base product require mineral spirits for clean up, have a longer dry time, and have a stronger odor while drying to a harder finish.

Latex products typically will dry faster and are water clean up. Oil base products are used primarily where a harder finish is required. However, today's improved latex products have allowed for the substitution of latex in nearly all scenarios that had traditionally called for an oil base material.

A: We typically do not recommend painting over wallpaper for the following reasons:

• Seams may not lie down properly.
• Moisture from the paint could cause blistering or peeling.
• Over a heavy vinyl, the paint's adhesion may be minimal.
• The texture from the wallpaper may not look very good on a solid wall.
  
  However, if you move forward with painting your wallpaper, we recommend testing the system prior to taking on the whole job. Keeping in mind the points stated above, the only paper that may be primed is nonporous paper.

If removal of the paper is not an option, first clean the surface. Then lightly sand the seams to make them as smooth as possible. Test a quick drying alkyd primer on the wallpaper. If the primer dries without lifting or blistering, move to the next step of applying a finish coat over the primer.

A: Follow these steps to prep walls for painting, following wallpaper removal:

1. Scrape off all loose and peeling paint from the surface and wash the walls to remove any glue residue.
2. If the drywall paper is damaged remove any loose paper and then use 80-120 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the area. This will feather the edges where the paper was removed.
3. Apply one coat of Sherwin-Williams Drywall Conditioner to the damaged areas. This product seals the torn or broken area and provides a suitable base for drywall patching.
4. Allow 3 hours drying time before applying a skim coat, patching, new wallcovering, or primer to the surface.

A: Yes, older wood paneling can be painted.

1. First clean the surfaces thoroughly with a good detergent. Often someone has used polish or some other wax-based material, making this cleaning necessary. If waxes exist, remove with ammoniated cleaners.
2. Once dry, sand the surface to a smooth dull finish and remove all sanding dust. Once clean, use an alkyd primer to prime the surface to help prevent bleeding.
3. Finish with a good quality latex paint like SuperPaint^® or Duration^® Home. For best results, we always recommend testing the system prior to taking on the whole job.
    

A: Yes, but vinyl surfaces can be difficult to coat. The composition of some of these surfaces prevents proper adhesion of paints. For best results, we always recommend testing the system prior to taking on the whole job.

1. First clean the surfaces thoroughly with a good detergent.
2. Test the our Multi-Purpose Latex Primer on the surface for adhesion. If the primer dries without lifting or blistering, you can proceed.
3. Finish with a good quality latex paint like SuperPaint^® or Duration^® Home.