A: Yes, treated wood can be stained. Before staining wood, be sure to prepare it by washing or sweeping it to clear any dirt and dust. In order to achieve the best results when staining, make sure to find out the type of treatment previously applied to the wood before beginning the staining process.

A: Types of wood stains include:

• Water-based
• Water-soluble dye
• Oil-based
• Gel
• Lacquer
• Varnish
• Metalized dye stain

While they share similar properties and overall purpose, each is also equipped with unique properties. To choose a stain, consider the following:

• Wood type
• Local/regional climate conditions
• Required maintenance
• Cost
• Overall aesthetics

A: There are several finishes that work well for stained wood. The first thing you'll want to do is decide between a surface finish or a penetrating finish. Next, determine the best type of base - oil or water. Lastly, make sure to note the properties of each finish and compare what each has to offer to your desired aesthetic, budget, and maintenance abilities.

A: In most cases, wood stain drys 24-72 hours after application. This depends on the type of finish on your decking, as well as whether or not the decking is dry. There are also other factors to consider, such as the number of coats of stain and the type of stain used.

A: Redwood, red cedar and other resin-rich wood species have tannins, which weather to a gray look. You can remove the tannin from the wood's surface using our SuperDeck^® Revive. The oxalic acid in this material will remove the damaged surface, thereby exposing fresh wood. Be sure to follow all cautionary statements on the label to avoid damage to nearby plants or person.

A: To some degree, this may be an aesthetic consideration.

A semi-transparent stain will show wood grain, while a solid or opaque stain will hide the grain but still allow the texture of the wood to remain visible. If the wood is sound and has a nice grain, it may be a matter of what is more pleasing from a visual standpoint. However, when wood is aged (with a potential for uneven wear) or has excessive porosity and/or extreme color variances, a solid or opaque stain will hide these imperfections.

Please note that in some cases wood may be damaged beyond repair and will not hold the stain long-term. In this case, wood will need to be replaced prior to staining the whole surface.

A: Stains with less viscosity (such as interior oil stains) have a thinner consistency. This may cause the stain pigment to settle out while the can remains stationary. This could result in varying stain tones as you work into the bucket. For this reason, when staining with such products it is important to stir the material from time to time to ensure uniformity of the overall tone.

A: Satin polyurethane is essentially the same type of product as gloss, but with a flatting paste introduced into the material to create the lower sheen. Unfortunately, because clear urethane products have very low viscosity, some of the flatting paste can settle to the bottom of the can. For this reason, when staining with such products it is important to stir the material from time to time to ensure uniformity of the overall tone.

If a product was applied after inadequate stirring, the result will likely be as you described. We recommend allowing the clear coat to dry fully, then scuff sand to uniformly dull the whole surface. Once this is complete, a final thin coat of the satin material can be applied. Be sure to stir as indicated to ensure a final finish that is truly satin throughout.

A: In most cases the wood has been sealed and clear-coated with polyurethane. Polyurethane dries hard and does not require excessive maintenance. In general, dry dusting is all that is needed.

On occasion mild, diluted soapy water can be used to remove any airborne contaminants that may be collecting on the surface. When cleaning with this solution, be sure to rinse with small amounts of water and to dry the surface. It is important to avoid having too much water soak into the wood as this could cause swelling of the wood and damage to the overall finish. Again, this type of cleaning should be done infrequently.

Please note that cleansers containing paraffin or oils will leave a film on the surface, which would need to be completely removed if the surface is ever in need of a fresh coat of urethane.

A: The pressure-treating process soaks wood and when newly installed, it will not allow coatings to adhere well. For the most part it's best to allow the surface to dry and the time needed can vary.

An easy test is to splash/sprinkle water on the surface. If the water beads on the surface, more drying time is needed. If the water droplets soak into the wood, then the surface can be coated. The deck should be cleaned at that time, with one or two days following to allow for drying. Once fully dry, coat pressure-treated decks with SuperDeck^® Stain.